Previously on part one.....
Without the resistance of the blower fan and suction of the vacuum filter assembly, this motor spins way faster than what the label states. So fast in fact it wants to tear itself apart while merrily dancing across the shop floor despite being mounted on springs (or maybe because it's mounted on springs?)
So, I need to figure out a way to slow the motor down or reduce the vibration component.
My first thought is to reduce the size of or modify the shape of the metal strip I added to the motor axle.
I think doing this only reduces the vibration. The motor will still be spinning way too fast and determining the right size of strip may be hit and miss to get exactly right.
How about controlling the motor speed? I think this will be the easier route.
Digging through my box of household electrical stuff, I found two incandescent dimmer switches that should work. They are designed for AC power (as is the electric motor) and this would add the ability to fine tune the vibratory effect for best results.
Before that however, I need to finish creating the parts bowl. First I inverted the bowl and traced a circle on a piece of spare lucite (plexiglass):
Cut the circle out using my bandsaw...... that's when I realized the centre section of the bowl sits above the rim:
To secure the new lid, I used a piece of hollow threaded rod. I screwed it into the top plate of the tumbler and l left it long enough to add a cap to hold it down tight to the bowl:
To hold the lid, I found an old powder scoop that fits perfectly over the bowl centre. That and a washer and nut hold everything down nicely:
Now that everything is built, back to slowing down the motor.
I added in the rotary dimmer switch. It has an off position when turned counter-clockwise all the way. I'll tide up the wiring once I figure out if this is going to work as designed. The picture was taken prior to creating the lid. Using the dimmer works!
Time to test the machine....
First, add the tumbling media, in this case a couple of scoops of clean clay cat litter. Then add some dirty, greasy and rusty test parts:
Close and fasten the lid..... all secure and "go for power-up!" The vibrating of the tumbler makes it hard to get a clear picture, but the media very quickly envelops the parts. As it tumbles, they occasionally come back up the top:
The tumbler is NOISY! I suspect the bolts between the levels of the tumbler are vibrating against the bowl. That should be easy to fix. Perhaps it might have to be run outside. After letting it run for about five minutes, I decided to have a look at the progress. Even after only 5 minutes, the parts are obviously cleaner and devoid of the grime they entered with:
Although the parts come out a bit dusty, clearly this method and machine I've built works very well, even at a short duration. I'm planning on running a longer test this afternoon and will post more details.
What used to look like this:
Now looks much, MUCH better:
The biggest change is floor space. I'm no longer tripping over stuff to work on other stuff. Most of that is from better organization and better work surfaces. And a personal commitment to put stuff back where it belongs.... HA!
It's certainly not perfect. I still have some decisions to make on some of the smaller items and some stuff to get rid of (bonfire anyone?) I doubt it ever will be perfect, but it's a darn sight better than what it was!
On another note, I picked up a digital calliper on sale at Home Hardware during their no tax sale this weekend:
Like the dial indicator I bought a couple of weeks ago, this will be an invaluable tool to measure the engine components as I pull apart the core engine.
Off tomorrow to look at 2 cores that should be acceptable for conversion! Now I have space to work. Very motivating :)
Used some of these t-nuts....
...that I salvaged from the old desk I recycled for the workbench top. I drilled the mounting hole and used the bolt to draw the t-nut....
....tight into the underside of the bench-top. Now I have a way to temporarily secure my vise and drill press. Mounting bolts go through the top of the desk and hold nice and tight in the t-nuts:
These will come in handy at some point I'm sure.
I'm almost ready to share some pictures from the re-organized shop, but not quite. Here is a sneak peak of my re-organized tool board. I bought a new set of pliers today on sale at Canadian Tire. I never seem to lose screwdrivers, but for some reason I can't hold onto pliers...
Brenda says she is thankful because now she doesn't need to go digging around to find a tool that she might need. Power tools are in the bin under the workbench.
The other tool I picked up today was a dial indicator ($15 at the local hardware store). They actually told me the other day I was the first person to ask in many years for one and when I went in today to buy it they knocked $5 off the price.... sometimes it pays to shop local.
This simple tool will be invaluable in measuring some of the running gear of my engine turns straight and true. It will also be helpful in determining the suitability of the salvage parts (crankshaft, cam, etc) being sent for rebuild.
Hopefully the shop muck out will be "complete" this week and I can start actively purchasing a core engine to work on.
Storage and workshop solution building continues. I finished attaching the top to my new rolling workshop table:
The top is recycled from an old office desk, sturdy and solid. I left if overhanging the frame on all sides giving me plenty of space to clamp things to the table without giving up stability. Frame is 2x4 lumber. Locking casters on opposite corners prevent it from rolling away while working.
Still to come:
Haven't had a ton of time this week to work in the shop for more than a few minutes at a time, but I've been puttering around in there when I could.
As stated in an earlier post, I've been looking for a way to save space. I discovered this link on Instructables.com for a fold down workbench.
I'm certainly no carpenter (sorry Grampa Sword), but I think my version turned out well enough:
Aside from a buying a couple of wood screws, it is made entirely out of scrap 2x4 lumber I already had and an old large cupboard door as the top. Not heavy duty, but an excellent table to work on light weight projects.
I think I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel :)
Next up... a rolling workbench for heavier items and a place to store some of my tools....
Shop muck out continues.
You may recall, this picture is the before. It really can deceive the viewer as to much space we actually have to work with... what a mess:
Now, after sorting the mess and trying to put stuff together that belongs together, I'm well on my way to making space:
It's a pain as I feel like I'm moving stuff around to move stuff around, but it's getting there and it really is my own fault anyhow.
One of the main goals is to create space with, well, better utilization of the space. We are fortunate that the shop area has a fairly high ceiling to work with (open joists as well). Brenda came up with the idea to build a hanging rack from scrap 2x4's to move our long pieces of trim, moldings and tongue & groove boards:
The old closet doors in the corner are going to be sent to the re-build store, but are out of the way in the corner for now.
Another project (every project leads to another!) I've been putting off way too long is insulating the lower wall.
An short amount of time later, voila! Insulated and sealed!
The other walls need work too, but are fine for now. No more bare concrete sucking out the heat.
Off tomorrow to look at a core engine.... fingers crossed!
As I continue to read and digest the information in my conversion manual, the more I realize I've got a ton to learn. But that's what I'm here for (see Motivation).
One of the main items that the conversion manual refers to is the original General Motors (parent of Chevrolet) "green shop manual". This is the manual issued to dealer service centres and covers pretty much everything bumper to bumper on how to service and repair a Chevrolet Corvair. It contains bolt sizes, torque values and disassembly / assembly procedures.
Of course for my project, I'm interested in the sections of the shop manual that apply specifically to the engine assembly and perhaps some of the chassis stuff where the engine is attached. This will be a huge help if I obtain an engine still in a chassis or attached to a transmission.
I did some research online and these manuals are actually still available from Corvair parts suppliers and on EBay.
Further Googling (if that's a word) led me to a PDF copy.
Print, punch and put in a binder. Not green like the original but perfect otherwise! More reference material for the build in my shop.
My conversion manual arrives in my hands this week!
If I'm going to be working on this project (or any other one that comes up) I'm going to need to make some space. Wait, I have space. So I guess what I'm saying is I'm going to need to make better use of the space I have.
Well past time to tidy up! Here is a somewhat embarrassing photo from a couple of weeks ago:
What a mess. Unfortunately I've been using my shop as a dumping ground for stuff that either should be thrown out long ago or put away properly, but it's a personal fault I am working on.
I started today cleaning up and purging some of the crap I've gathered over the past 15 years we've been here. A good portion of it will be going to thrift stores, some to recycling and a bunch to the dump or burn pile. The stuff I'm keeping must meet two strict rules..... either it's needed or I will actually use it. Everything else is on it's way out.
More learning I guess 😊 And more pictures to come of my clean workshop. Stay tuned.
Time until takeoff
Husband, father and 911 dispatcher. Long time pilot with a licence that burns a hole in my pocket where my student loan money used to be. First time aircraft builder. Looking to fly my own airplane.