Back in the shop after a couple of nightshifts at work. The shop is definately where I like to be, working away on the airplane and away from the constant din of COVID doom and gloom. We are streaming music via a bluetooth speaker to avoid any outside news. The crazies that call 911 with stupid scenarios around social distancing rules are starting to really annoy me, but that is for someone to worry about right now while I'm on days off.
With everything on the flap assembly correctly drilled to correct size, it's pulled all apart again for deburring. I decided it was best to drill the flap pickups for the connector bolt while they are off the flap that way I can ensure consistent position of the hole. I noted these measurements in my plans (Zenith don't tell you the dimensions of the hole placement on the angle, just that it's an AN3 diameter bolt hole).
Placing the pick-ups back to back and clamping them together for drilling through makes for an easy way to make them consistent.
With everything deburred, I cleaned of the Sharpie markings off with acetone, scuffed up everything with a purple 3M Scotchbrite pad and wiped everything clean again. The aluminum sure looks clean now!
I was going to use Cortec primer again here, but decided interior pieces can be sprayed with green chromate based primer. I did any edge that would be in contact with other aluminum. Kind of wish I had done this with the elevator - much easier that the Cortec and easier to see coverage is complete. The outside surfaces of the flap pick-ups are done in grey paintable self-etching primer as they will be painted with the flaps later. For the flap spar, the outside of the flanges and the areas where ribs attach were also done.
I cleaned up the flap pick up holes as well using the same process. Green primer on the inside, grey on the outside. The grey primer looks thick in the picture, but it dried thin and smooth.
It doesn't take long for either primer to dry, so assembly can begin almost right away again. Kinda weird seeing everything in green but it will be inside the flap!
Here you can see the flap pickup angles painted primer grey.
A5 rivets here really tighten up this joint/structure. The entire weigh of the flap counts on this important interface.
With the entire inner flap skeleton now riveted, I added the skin back on and began riveting it all together again. This picture below shows the control horn and doubler in place, already primed and ready for riveting. It also shows the "toe-in" of the root rib and how the skin was trimmed to match. I took measurements and documented the rivet placement so I can match the other inboard flap.
Here is another close-up of the protruding flapperon pick-up angle. Really happy how the hole turned out. When prepping everything for final paint, I might consider filling the gap with some flexible putty or something to clean it up entirely. Not required but would prevent water or something getting in there.
From here, it's the process of riveting alternate holes on the bottom surface, working from the trailing edge forward towards the spar. Next, remove the remaining clecos, rivet any remaining holes and the bottom is complete.
Next time in the shop, I'll be flipping it over and drawing the nose skin down for temporary rivets across the top surface. It will be set aside and I can start the next one.
Only 3 more flaps to go. They should go much faster now.
Thanks for following along. Find your way to self isolate - make something!
Husband, father and 911 dispatcher. Long time pilot with a licence that burns a hole in my pocket where my student loan money used to be. First time aircraft builder. Looking to fly my own airplane.