Back in the shop today. Got back to work on the second wing, continuing with the fit up of the pitot static tubes.
I was going to leave the tubes braze welded where they join inside the nose skin, but decided it would be better to braze weld it on the outside portion as well to give it more strength. Flipped the tubes around and braze-welded the tubes on the outside portion of the plate:
To get the tubes in the correct position is a bit challenging The centerline of the static tube (the lower one when the wing is upside down like it is now) needs to be 64mm above the wing skin, but it also needs to the perpendicular to the nose skin surface and perpendicular to the wing spar. This ensures the air flowing across the wing enters the pitot correctly leading to more accurate airspeed readings. If the tube faces slight down/up or sideways to the relative airflow, that can induce airspeed indication errors.
I grabbed a short block of wood from the scrap pile and drilled a 1/4 inch hole close to the end of it:
Used the bandsaw to cut off the end of the block, giving a resting groove for the tube, then trimmed and sanded the opposite end so the block is exactly 64 mm long:
The concept was good, but very hard to make it stay still as there was no easy way to balance or attach the block to the skin and keep the measurements accurate:
Grabbed another board from the scrap pile and created a jig to simulate the wing skin surface.
Drilled a hole similar in size to the one in the nose skin to pass the tubes through:
I like using wood as a base for jigs because you can cleco things to them (I've done this in the past for things I need to duplicate accurately. In this case, it's just to simulate the flat surface of the nose skin:
The picture isn't in best focus, but you can see the concept. The tube is supported by the block which is secured to the wood by a screw from underneath. This places the tube exactly 64 mm from the "skin" and I can also confirm the tubes are square to the plate and parallel to the "skin":
I used a scrap piece of 016 aluminum to strap down the tube in the groove of the block. This holds the tube exactly where I need it and gives me the freedom to secure the tubes to the plate where the tubes pass through:
For years I've seen JB Weld on the shelf of the hardware store and never thought I'd have a use for it. After Ron recommended it as a way to bond the tubes to the plate, so I thought I'd give it a try. Brazing the aluminum plate to the steel tubes would be difficult as each material heats/cools are different rates and heating the joint up enough could compromise the strength of the brazing I'd already done.
JB Weld is very easy to use. Squeeze out a small amount of each part of the epoxy onto a piece of cardboard:
Use a small stick and mix the two parts together until they completely blend to an even colour:
With the epoxy blended, use the stick to apply around the joint and let sit. It takes about 4 to 6 hours to set up and another 12-24 hours to fully cure. It cures extremely hard and strong and can be shaped with grinding and sanding and accepts primer and paint:
I also applied a liberal amount to the end of the static tube which by design has the end plugged (it reads static pressure from the 3 tiny holes drilled radially along the length, perpendicular to airflow). Once the epoxy hardens, I will carefully grind this tip into a more acceptable aerodynamic point, probably a bullet shape or maybe just rounded off.
So of course after all those years of seeing JB Weld on the shelf and not thinking I would ever use it, I can now thing of dozens of uses!
While I Iet that set up and begin to cure, I turned my attention to the front strut pick-up angle. I remembered how I did the other wing, so was able to fairly quickly bend the angle to shape, fasten it to the assembly and drill out the 3/8 hole to match the strut pick-up:
Brought the second wingtip down from storage and did the preliminary cutting out from the mould and trimming the edges. Lots more to do here with outboard skins and nose skin before final trimming will be complete.
Started to layout the curve of the outboard edge of the nose skin. The templates I made are very helpful to make this wing an exact opposite of the other wing.
Thanks again for following along and special thanks to my girls Brenda, Caitlyn and Natalie for giving me the time on Saturdays to work on this dream of mine.
More to come.
Still working when I can on the left wing. I've found it challenging to get to the shop as regularly as I would like, but a little encouragement from Brenda to get moving on Saturday morning was a big help.
First thing I wanted to do was inventory and sort some of the partial sheets of rolled aluminum I have on hand. I've very close to having everything I need and certainly everything I will use in the immediate future.
Inboard nose skin installed on the wing. Critical to get it straight for drilling holes on the spar line otherwise the skin will roll over the nose ribs crooked, leading to wrinkles. A long board weighted down helps keep everything flat.
Used some strong twine to gently wrap the nose skin over and down, leaving more room beside the bench to drill the spar out to A3:
This time, before adding the nose skin, I roughed out the measurements of where the slot for the strut pickup, then translated that onto the nose skin:
I did the same thing on the rear channel where the trailing edge skin will need to be slotted for the rear pick-up:
Outboard nose skin added and rolled down like the inboard. This makes it so much easier to reach to the spar:
Attached the strut angle to the lower wing skin and where it extends out over the nose skin. In the picture I've leaned the strut pick-up approximately in place. This will be bent over to act as the doubler for the strut pick-up where it protrudes through the skin from the spar inside:
Here is a picture from the right wing which explains what it looks like completed:
The correct slot in the outboard end of the skin and the tie down ring in place. I'll wait to rivet it until the skin is ready for final riveting.
Strut pick-up slot cut and fit, forward strut pick-up in place awaiting fit up of the doubler angle:
One of the differences with the left wing vs the right one is the addition of the pitot and static tubes.
In simple terms, the pitot tube faces into the slipstream and passes that pressurized air entering the tube through a system of tubing to the instrument panel in the cockpit. An airspeed indicator uses changes in pressure in the tube to calculate the speed of the aircraft through the air.
The static tube measures atmospheric pressure outside the aircraft which is used by other cockpit instruments to calculate altitude and the rate of climb/descent.
Systems vary from aircraft to aircraft, mine is made of simple metal tubing, formed as per the plans.
First I needed to add a plate to the location on the lower nose skin where the plans define the pitot/static tubes will be:
In preparation to bend the plumbing for the fuel system, I bought these tube bending pliers:
The pliers were fantastic to bend the 1/4 inch outside diameter steel brake line for the tubes. The two tubes travel parallel to each other. The one on top is the static tube, the bottom the pitot (airspeed):
This is where things get a bit tricky. The plate needs a figure eight shaped hole for the two tubes where they run parallel. Once welded together, I won't be able to slide the plate off the tubes because they diverge at both ends:
Before welding the tubes together, I removed the plate from the tubes and used the hole to trace out a rough location for the hole in the nose skin:
The hole needs to be wide enough that when the tubes are welded together the ends can pass into the nose skin but still be covered by the plate. Corner drilled the proposed hole....
....then Dremel tooled the lines to create the hole. A bit of filing to clean up the corners and edges:
I taped the tubes back together with the plate and checked the fit in the hole - all good.
The static tube has three holes drilled around the circumference. The end facing into the siipstream is welded closed. Completed this way, the tube measures atmospheric pressure:
I included a photo of the drill bit (3/64") to give some idea of scale:
I cleaned up the tubes with Scotchbrite pads and again with a stainless steel brush. I used a couple of woodens shims to clamp the tubes in proper position relative to each other and actually remembered to re-add the mounting plate:
Gentle heat up of the tubes where they join inside the wing and brazed them together:
With both tubes brazed together I placed them back on the nose skin. I'll need to figure out how to position these accurately later when the wing gets closed up, but very pleased how they turned out. They get some JB Weld epoxy at the hole to seal them up to the plate and primed before paint.
Good progress this last couple of sessions. Next up, trailing edges. Plumbing for the pitot/static tubes needs to be considered soon as the lines that go to the cockpit/panel run through the rear channel and into the trailing edge spaces as does the fuel lines.
Thanks for following along, stay tuned for more soon.
Race - the answer is Race.(not sure at my current pace what place I'll come in, but still progressing).
Although things are still progressing on the plane, there isn't much to share that you haven't already seen. This wing is obviously a mirror image of the first, with very few differences that are yet to be addressed. I've also been busy with projects outside of the build which have kept me away from the shop more than I would like. Summer is coming to a close and winter is not far behind, so more shop time is likely (I hate the cold of winter.... maybe hate is too strong a word but whatever).
With the rear channel now in place and riveted to the rest of the skeleton, I took the upper skin off for debur and to check and rivet the main and nose ribs.
It pays to double check every thing. On the inner wing tank rib, I "figure eighted" a hole when back drilling the upper root skin. It's easy to do, just was very disappointed to make this mistake.
I originally planned to replace the entire rib, which would mean starting from a blank, forming the rib on blocks, cutting and flanging lightening holes, the works. Not to mention removing the damaged rib from the skeleton by drilling out the rivets, etc. In consultation with Ron, we decided a doubler L epoxied to the inside of the rib flange would be a suitable and easier repair. That took a couple of hours to make up, but the results are strong and acceptable - also much better than making an entirely new rib!
Drilled out the tie down ring and match drilled it to the nose rib:
Upper wing skins final riveted to the ribs. When I flipped the other wing over, I noticed the square tubing left scuff marks on the skins despite having masking tape on them. I decided to mask the skins where they will contact the tubes when this wing is flipped over to try and alleviate the issue this time around:
Flipped the wing over on the bench and squared everything up with a level (pic is before levelling):
With the spar now perfectly vertical and the skeleton evenly supported from below, I laid out the rivet line in the lower main spar using the shop LONG straight edge. Also rivetted the nose ribs to the spar:
Pulled a fresh 12 foot roll of 020 and cut out the inboard lower skin. Rolling it out on top of the skeleton it was nice to see a good square fit on the wing frame:
Flash forward a bit, the lower skin is in place, as are the flapperon arms and requisite slots in the lower skin:
The outboard lower skin was next.
Outboard lower skin complete with stiffening L. Trimming the end to match the wing tip will come once the wingtip is fitted:
All ribs and lower skin drilled out to A4 with the exception of the lower root rib:
Way back, I made up 2 root rib splice plates while I had a couple of scraps of 025. I put them away in my bin for when I got to the wings but apparently I lost track of them. When doing the first wing, I had forgotten them so made up the one I needed at the time. Low and behold today I found the pair I made way back when. Today I added the second one. That's the way it goes with scratch building and small parts I suppose.
Pulled the flapperons/skin support angles, slat supports/support angles and the root rib doubler from the skeleton, deburred them and cleaned them up for priming:
Grey self etching primer complete, these parts will be riveted to the wing soon:
Progress is progress, even if slow. Thanks Mr Tortoise for the valuable lesson.
More to come including debur of the lower skin and fabrication of the pitot/static probes. Thanks as always for following along :)
Good productive Saturday in the shop.
Finished fitting the upper root skin to the wing. As this is the second one of these I have to do, I knew what it should look like when it was done and the easiest way to get there.
The root skin it attached at the rear channel first. I used some tape to hold it down at the main spar so I could scribe a line where the tank rib doubler strip and root rib lines are:
Working from the rear channel forward., A3 holes/clecos following the scribed lines:
A3 the up-sized to A4. The reflection of the shop lights make this skin look crinkled, but it curved out really smooth and I'm very happy with how it looks:
Next was pilot drilling the root skin doubler as it extends over the first nose rib. I wish the root skin doubler on my right wing turned out this nice, but that's the value of experience.
Disassembled the rear channel for debur and prime:
Once the primer was dry, I reassembled the rear channel and attached it to the wing. Measuring everything up to ensure the wing remains square is an important step:
On the right wing, I did the bulk of the riveting of the rear channel off of the wing skeleton. This time I decided it would be better to do it all on the wing in position - this too was a better way to do it.
The centre section where the two rear channels meet is also where the rear strut pick-up is located. I didn't rivet here yet because I want to fit the lower skins and trailing edges first.
Another good Saturday done, 7 hours total added to the tally board.
Next up, nose rib debur, prime and rivet - then the wing can be flipped over to work on the lower skins.
Thanks for following along, more to come.
Another quick update. I promised a Sunday update, here it is 1145pm as I furiously type away.
Outboard top skin, now in place including the skin stiffener L's:
Fit up the inboard top skin (fuel tank bay cover):
Wing root strip, installed and drilled to fuel tank rib:
Wing root strip fluted to create the rounding over the nose rib:
Upper root skin, cut to size and fit up underway:
Another productive week in the shop. I've updated the completed features graphic, but it's deceiving. Only the upper surface of the left wing is done, this pic makes it look like both wings are done. Notice the left wing is missing the trailing edge and root nose skin. Details keenly captured by MS Paint. LOL
More to come, stay tuned :)
With the right wing now in storage, time to clean off the bench, confirm it's level (again) and start fresh on the left wing. I already think things are going to go faster this time as I've already sorted out the order of operations and know any gotcha this time around- as long as I remember this one points left! Most all the parts for the wing are already made as I made a matching part when I made them for the right wing where I could.
Parts roughly laid out. I had already drilled the rib mounting holes in the spar when I made the spar.
After positioning the main ribs, next up was assembly of the rear channel. Clamped the inner rear channel doubler to the rear channel to establish the layout of the mid join point:
Rear mid channel joining doubler:
Rear strut pick-up, laid out for drilling:
I drilled out everything in the rear channel to A3. In preparation for attaching the rear channel, the spar is squared up vertical to the bench using upright posts screwed to the bench. The orange string line confirms the spar is perfectly straight and a level.
Rear channel is attached. Straight, level and held in place with blocking screwed to the table top. A long board under the rear end of the main ribs supports the wing skeleton and keeps the spar vertical and square:
0.125 root doubler in place (another part made at the same time as the right wing one):
Blocking at the inboard and outboard ends of the rear channel keeps it perfect lateral position relative to the spar which also squares the wing ribs. The wing skeleton is now perfectly square and level.
Nose ribs are added to the front of the spar:
When I did my right wing, I took the skeleton apart before fitting the skins and riveted anything I could ahead of time. It meant squaring everything up again before adding the skins. This time, I'm going to fit up the upper skins while the skeleton is secured as square and level. Once the skins are drilled out to A3, then everything will come apart for debur, prime and final rivet.
Here is the outboard upper skin laid out in rough position:
Once completely square to the skeleton, I'll begin drilling the skin to spar and rear channel out to A3. The the rib rivet lines will be laid out. The skin will come off the skeleton to pilot drill the rib lines on the skin and place the upper skin stiffeners. That process worked perfectly on the right wing, so I'm repeating that here.
Next up will be the upper inboard skin which is the piece that goes over the fuel tank bay. I'll need to fabricate the inboard root angle first.
For my regular readers, I'm sorry the blog has been lacking. I'll try and get more regular updates posted, but to be honest there isn't a lot of content here that wasn't already described during the right wing build-up. I do have some extras in the left wing including the pitot and static lines, but that comes towards the end when I run the plumbing for the fuel and wiring for the lights.
As always, thanks for following along.
I haven't been getting to the shop as much as I would like (or need) lately. Work has been so busy that by the end of the day I have little energy left for shop. When I've made it there, I've been slowly plugging away at all the little detail items in hopes of getting the wing off the build table and into storage.
I mentioned in a previous blog post that I wasn't happy with the pulled A5 rivet on the front strut pick-up that the plans call for. A standard A5 wasn't long enough to pass through the strut attach plate and support angle - once pulled the rivet tail won't expand enough to be acceptable in my opinion. So instead I drove a bucked rivet here instead.
It was a bit of a trick to buck the rivet in the tight space, but it turned out very well.
Continued working on the nose root skin using a card-stock template. I also spent some time lightly sanding out some minor surface scratches on the skins caused by moving the wing back and forth on the bench.
I've temporarily fastened the top wing root skin to the new curved angle on top of the spar root (see previous blog for further information). This additional angle works nicely to round out the upper root skin.
The cardstock template is a bunch easier to round out and shape the nose root skin. The nose root skin is only 016 aluminum, but is the most complex curve of the entire build and a tight fitting bend. I've got it started, but it doesn't get final fit until the wings are attached to the fuselage - it meets the cabin roof and windshield here so it's important to have them mated up before final trimming and install. This will be done later.
The weather has also been really wet during June, so although the wing is technically ready to be moved to storage I've been waiting for a nice day to do so and have enough hands to help. Ron is nursing a hand injury, his spouse Donna is recovering from a broken wrist and Brenda and the girls are busy too.
In the meantime, I got started on the ribs for the second wing. After doing the first set for the left wing using a combination of boards and cardstock templates (which worked well), I decided to try a different method (both work equally well, this second method seems to have gone faster).
Set up the bench edge as my template. The edge of the bench represents the lower wing skin, the board fastened to the bench represents the wing spar. I made sure the board is 90 degrees to the horizontal. They are kinda faint in the picture, but the blue vertical lines to the left of the nose ribs are my keypoint lines - where the slat support lines up/attaches to the rib:
With the slat attachment clecoed in place to the bench and the rib clamped down, backdrill through the rib the required 6 rivet holes. Then add the nose skin support L (I did these the same way as the first wing). Repear the process for nose ribs 3, 4 and 6 (four in total):
Next up was the flapperon arms. I used the same principal for these. It starts with matching holes at the trailing end of the arm for all four:
Obviously, the main wing ribs are longer and the flapperon arm protrudes below the lower skin horizontal plane. As a result, I have to extend the "bench edge" upwards with a spacer board. Like the right wing, the flanges on the first rib face opposite than the others, making room for the fuel tank bay:
The spacer I chose left me just enough room at the table edge to fasten the flapperon arm. Clamping it down and the rib:
To make the rivet holes consistent, I laid out a piece of card-stock and placed it inside the rib directly over where the flapperon arm gets attached:
Repeat the process for main ribs 3, 4 and 6:
Add the skin support Ls:
Rib assemblies for wing number 2 complete!
That's it for this blog entry. More to come, thanks for sticking with me.
Got some time in the shop this past week. Here is the latest on the right wing.
Upper main skins, upper nose skins and top side trailing edges are sealed up for storage. This means two temporary rivets in each bay to hold everything together until I re-open it for inspection at a later date.
Also created and installed the curved attach angle for the upper root rib. You may recall from a previous post that the design changed in this area since my plans were issued, however I hadn't seen any update from Zenith. This meant creating a work-around with a curved L bracket, I pleased this will create a much better curved surface for attaching the root skins.
Flipped the wing over to access the lower skins and final rivet them:
The bottom of the wing is almost all final riveted closed, very happy how it looks, but still needs some cleaning and light wet sanding to remove some light scratches:
Jury strut attachment brackets are now firmly in place on the spars/ribs:
Here is the rear strut pickup and 3rd flapperon arm. This joint area really turned out nicely. Still need to rivet the trailing edge joint where they overlap:
I purposely left the lower outboard wing skin un-rivetted so I can have un-fettered access to the wing tip area for fit up and final attachment:
Measured up the rivet line for the front wingtip attach bracket and drilled out to A3:
Wing tip in place, with the lower outboard skin in place to check alignment:
With the wingtip in place, I discovered that the rear channel attach bracket wasn't sitting flush against the wingtip. I re-fabricated a new one to match correctly (pic is of original):
With the tip in place again and the lower skin removed, I marked the location of the rivet holes from inside through the spar and rear channel brackets. Then I removed the tip form the wing, back drilled at the marks up to A3. I added a strip of masking tape where the holes are to protect and prevent cracking of the plastic and placed the wingtip back in position and fastened with clecos:
Lower skin back on, drilled the outboard edge to A3 and cleco. I won't be final drilling these up to A4 until the wingtip lights and wiring are done, probably just before inspection. Trailing edge has since been trimmed to match since picture was taken:
At the root end of the wing, I started making up the template for the nose root skin. I had originally cut the actual skin from 016 based directly on the measurements in the plans. But noticed when I went to fit it, I had made a critical cutting mistake near the spar attachment and I wasn't happy with the overall fit anyhow, so it goes to the scrap bin for other small parts.
Making a cardstock template from the plans with a bit extra on the edges allows much easier fit up. with some masking tape backing on the edges, the template can actually be clecoed to the wing. Initial stages of fit-up are very promising, the final template will be transferred to a fresh piece of 016 for the final piece, once I trim it perfectly.
Almost there, many MANY small steps along the way. In the next week I should be able to put this wing into storage and start work on the left wing. Testing continues on lighting and fuel sensors.
Thanks for following along. Onwards.....
Some good hours in the shop this past week.
The wing tip inner liners came out really well:
Next up for the wingtip is final fitment and pilot drilling the rivet lines top and bottom of the wing and into the spar tip support L and rear channel L.
I decided to try my hand at brazing some aluminum in preparation to assemble the wing fuel tanks. I started with a couple of scraps of 025, the same aluminum the tank walls and body are made from. The goaI was to simulate a welded seam:
To accomplish a good brazed joint on any metal, the surfaces of both pieces need to be cleaned completely to take off any oxidation. I used the Dremel with a stainless steel wheel brush to clean both:
The shorter strip will be on top of the longer one and offset to simulate a lap joint, so I cleaned the centre of the longer one:
My choice for flame heat is MAPP gas - from what I'm told it is hotter and cleaner than propane:
Gently heat up the aluminum joint focusing on the seam where the brazing will be. It needs to be hot enough to flow the brazing rod into the joint. Anyone who has done soldering should be familiar with this. The brazing rod melts at a much lower temperature than the aluminum. Unfortunately it is difficult to capture the brazing rod melting into the joint.
My first attempt wasn't very good. I found it hard to flow the brazing rod into the seam evenly. The bending of the aluminum wasn't from the heat, but from tapping with hammer after it cooled. The "weld" held but not very well (it broke much easier than it should have) and appears to be full of pinholes - not good for sealing a fuel tank seam!
Another attempt with two circular scraps was even worse....
I did manage to get a very strong bead along the edge furthest from the vice. I think a big part of the issue is that the cast steel vise is acting as a very large heat sink, drawing the heat built up in the aluminum from the torch away and into the vice quicker than it should. I'll need to consider this when I have the tank pieces clamped together, but I clearly need more practice before I can trust this as a leak proof fuel tank.
I've decided I also need more time to test the pressure sensors before committing to using them in the tanks, so I'm going to put the tank assembly off until later and focus on finishing this wing and the other one.
I've added the root skin to the right wing:
The root skin goes from perfectly flat at the rear channel to very rounded over at the spar. The root nose skin closes up the front corner of the nose. It's going to be fun!
One issue I ran into is the upper root skin in proper position, won't sit flat on the spar root doubler. Forcing this convex skin flat to meet the doubler only serves to crinkle the skin, so I had to reach out to some fellow builders to see if they had this issue and how they dealt with it. I have an simple answer, more on that in my next blog.
This picture shows how much the upper root skin tapers down at the root. You can imagine the root nose skin shaped somewhat like a cone as it tapers both inboard from the nose rib to the root nose rib:
Getting very close and happy with my decision to put off making the wing tanks. I definately need more time with the torch and brazing rod in hand to make good consistent brazed joints. Like everything else it will come with practice so I'm not worried. This will also give me time to get some serious testing done on the pressure sensor set up which I still believe will work as I designed.
Thanks for reading along. Onwards....
My pressure sensors finally arrived! I'm stoked to experiment with these models as I believe they have the measurement resolution and electrical specs for my Arduino fuel gauge solution.
First up, unboxing and evaluation. First thing out of the box I was really surprised at how large they are. It didn't have any physical measurements on the ordering page, but I had the mistaken impression from the pictures online they would be somewhat smaller and lighter, similar to the 10psi sensor I ordered initially. the new one is larger, a bit heavier (not unreasonably so) and doesn't come with an integrated cable:
They will still fit my application space, but I'll probably need to consider some sort of mounting bracket to secure it with the fuel line. Overall build quality seems real good. Two sensors, exact same spec, just like I ordered - 1.5psi, 1/4 inch NPT thread connection, 0.5V to 4.5V output:
Looking closer at the electrical connection end, standard cable compression sleeve entry and what appears to be a small screw holding the cap on the top:
Backing out the screw I thought would allow the cap to come off to reveal the electrical connections inside.....
........but the cap is actually a full 4 prong indexed plug on it's own - the machine screw secures the cap/connector to the sensor body. I like that in the design!
Another nice design detail is the rubber gasket on the bottom of the connector, protecting the joint with the sensor.
The terminal block pops out of the cap to reveal good quality screw terminals which are numbered to co-incide with the pin outs on the lable of the sensor. #1 for 5V+, #2 for sensor circuit ground and #3 for output signal. There is a 4th terminal with a electrical ground symbol - I suspect this is for sensor body ground, but I'll need to test to be sure:
I do know I need a better and more scientific set up for true testing and calibration, but here's what I did tonight to try it out. I used the same poly tube and connections as I did the for 10psi sensor tested previously. I slowly added water to the tube (in the upright position) and monitored the sensor connected to the Arduino micro-controller. Using the same Arduino script as before, it is clear to me this sensor is not only much better suited range wise to what I need (1.5 psi vs 10psi), it also seems the output signal is much more stable. I suspect this output stability is part build quality and part correct range specific, but I'm happy where this experiment and my related theory is headed. The photo doesn't capture the graphed output on the laptop, sorry. I'll try and get some screen captures when my test method/system improves.
Still much testing to prove the effectiveness of this method for measuring fuel tank quantity to come. This is another example of stuff I'm learning on this journey :)
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Husband, father and 911 dispatcher. Long time pilot with a licence that burns a hole in my pocket where my student loan money used to be. First time aircraft builder. Looking to fly my own airplane.